The
evolution of keeping warm
Valerie McPhail
MSMU Class of 2015
(2/2019) People will go to
ridiculous lengths to find warmth these days. The fashion
state-ment of my oversized duvet winter coat stakes a
claim to the far length we will take to ensure a shield of
protection from winters’ bite. With curiosity comes the
natural progression and modernization that has impacted
humanity’s approach to finding comfort in the cold: from
the Stone Age, and after Christ, into the 1800s through
1879, the year the first coat was invented, and through
current day fashion state-ments.
3001 BC
The Stone Age: a small time frame
known as the Neolithic Period, and the resurrect-ing era
of Stone Hedge. This time period presents a colony of
hunters and gatherers that operated in union with nature,
without heating machinery and without fashion and clothing
for warmth and protection. Rather, this culture led their
lives by deco-rating their bodies with ochre and paint -
relying on the natural environment among them - for the
necessities of life, including dressing and adorning the
body. God’s providence and Mother Nature’s blessing
offered enclave huts as homes where so-cieties established
shelter and retreated to building fires, hunting hides and
utilizing animal fur for warmth; the later resource is not
as socially appropriate to a modern world that is cautious
of our carbon footprint.
To track the influence fashion and
clothing has held over society throughout history, the BBC
published author Melissa Hogenboom’s argument for the
purpose of cloth-ing in society. She concludes, "We did
not invent clothes simply to stay warm… when it got too
cold to show off painted bodies, early humans were forced
to cover up." She reflects on the University of Sydney’s
Ian Gilligan’s theory on the relationship between body
painting and clothing expression. Hogenboom reiterates
Gilligan’s reasoning: "decorative function gets
transferred onto clothing… once that happened, humans
needed clothing for that social purpose as well as any
thermal purpose." The hunters and gatherers that lived in
the Stone Age were not only beautiful crea-tors that left
us with one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Stone
Hedge, but also left traces of the first methods to
keeping warm.
476 AD
As humanity became more civilized,
the necessity for clothing and fashion emerged into an
integral part of human existence, not just expression. The
Medieval Period acknowledges a society that fully engaged
with wardrobe. Cloaks, tunics, mittens, and even boots
made of leather became a uniform for civilization. Wool
was a fa-vored fabric and linen materialized into
undergarments and lined outerwear to in-sulate heat.
"Stone hearth fires" and amateur
chimneys, much later progressing to the use of coal-heat
and the invention of supplemented heated air circulation
in the home and public gatherings such as churches, were
critical. However, the developments of these secondary
tools were still a work in progress. Writer Sandra Alvarez
shares in the blog post "Surviving Winter in the Middle
Ages," that wool outer garments were heavily relied upon.
"Indoor heating wasn’t exactly great, so many people wore
their outer garments inside to keep warm…sweating would
reduce the warmth of wool, so medieval people often
removed layers when they perspired and then reapplied them
when they cooled down." Wool became a primary resource for
keeping warm. While in relationship with fashion design it
elevated a societal regard for clothing and its place in
society.
1700s - 1800s
As America established its liberty
in the 18th Century, history shares stories illumi-nating
a reliance on clothing – a wardrobe of coats and cloaks
offering support to a modernizing society building a
culture amidst cold weather seasons in a barren land. As
homes built fireplaces and chimneys, the women of the
household worked together to sew and utilize scrap
material for quilts, a true throw blanket for addi-tional
comfort in fierce winters. Before the invention of the
sewing machine, dated to 1970, "Mothers taught daughters
how to card wool and coax soft fibers from the hard stems
of flax; how to spin fibers into threads; how to stitch
and mend the heavy coats and hooded cloaks that soon must
ward off the biting winds. Cloth scraps and worn-out
clothing found new life in quilts and coverlets. Finer
stuff went into quilted petticoats to keep a lady warm
(David Robinson, "Coping with Cold"). Such beginnings
created culture. As fashion materials carried monetary
value, society re-garded particular goods as a gauge for
social status.
Fabric sourcing was a family
affair. Caring for herds of sheep, carding, and weaving
wool engaged each member of the household. As fabric
experimentation started to unravel — linen, cotton and
silk — clothing designs began to fashion. A variety of
coats for men reflected social status and long skirts and
capes for women were all lined with wool to support warmth
(Jane Wheeler, "Clothing of the 1830s"). The progression
from animal fur to fiber-based materials transpired.
1973 – 2000s
Simultaneously, a design termed
"an overcoat" was first introduced in this time pe-riod
and marked the start of contemporary culture. The men’s
full-length garment, brushing the knees of a gentleman
wearing the item, is a particular piece of fashion
formalized as a style accompanied by a top hat and
loafers, typically outfitting a man in a suit for work,
and also, in some instances, a symbol of military
personnel. As the style carried through decades as a mark
of a well-dressed gentleman, the item of clothing became
less concerned with a piece of fashion that was
functionally in-tended to keep a person warm, and became
more concerned as a mark of fashion history.
The puffer coat, a design of
current fashion that resembles the looks of a sleeping
bag, is another style that has left an impression on
fashion. "The Skyliner," originat-ing in the year 1936 by
male designer Eddie Bauer, was said to have been "created
out of personal necessity after Bauer nearly lost his life
to hypothermia whilst on a fishing trip in mid-winter" (Shonagh
Marshall, A Brief History of the Puffer Jacket). Today,
the puffer jacket is available for both men and women,
creating buzz on the runways of fashion week, and from my
personal experience, found disrupting daily life by
comments to how cozy and warm the style appears.
The history of the method to
keeping warm shows evolution in how society has cre-ated
socially acceptable methods to achieving warmth and
comfort. From animal skins to silk, the militant overcoat
to today’s ever so popular puffer jacket - fashion has
developed resources to a common human dilemma: securing
warmth. Has prac-ticality always been at the essence of
the objective? Maybe fashion never really compromised
practicality for sex appeal, or have we as a society
become stimulated, and sold by the wackiest concepts to
the point of sell-out trends? My personal deci-sion to
purchase my sleeping bag puffer jacket derived from a need
for protection from the cold and stylistic interest. After
all has been said and done, in the end it’s a wonder to
whether history is sharing a story on how fashion is
slowing taking cul-ture to a vegan and cruelty free
perspective for everyday living.
Read other articles by Valerie McPhail
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